tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5493681473159888383.post4477131237624070213..comments2024-03-13T07:41:06.281+00:00Comments on Bowyer's Diary: Back Patch for a FriendDerekhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07654835987876553254noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5493681473159888383.post-45837720645209481942015-01-16T17:47:22.818+00:002015-01-16T17:47:22.818+00:00Sounds about right, you may not necessarily have t...Sounds about right, you may not necessarily have to de-crown, depends on the diameter of the log and if it maybe has a flattish face (often they are not actually circular cross section), see how it feels when roughed out. If you can preserve the back as the natural surface it does save some work. I just find mm v convenient for thickness of bows rather than 1/16" etcDerekhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07654835987876553254noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5493681473159888383.post-63546278950450055172015-01-16T15:20:36.401+00:002015-01-16T15:20:36.401+00:00Derek,
Thank you, I'll have a think about spl...Derek,<br /><br />Thank you, I'll have a think about splitting one. A bit of a search as you advise tells me that I will need to decrown, and from http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/hazel-primitive.html, I'm looking at a width tapering from 2" to 1" and a thickness of 17mm - 12mm (interesting how we mix imperial and metric units)?<br /><br />Cheers,<br /><br /><br />Peter.Blue Peterhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09364472479969207332noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5493681473159888383.post-50138722619929077612015-01-14T13:37:22.024+00:002015-01-14T13:37:22.024+00:00Hi, This post my help:- http://bowyersdiary.blogsp...Hi, This post my help:- http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/marking-out-and-retail-therapy.html<br />Hazel splits easily but can split on the twist. Have a go with a scrap piece, wooden wedges will be tough enough to continue the split once it's started. Trust me it's fun, quick and easy.<br />The search engine on the blog is pretty good for finding stuff, so try a few searches. 'Hazel Bow' brings up a good few posts.Main tips, keep it long and wide, leave the handle thick and don't narrow it too much until the bow nearing full draw. That way you can line the handle up to the string, which is easier than vice versa. <br />If you have to saw it by hand, do it short burst, take your time, it cuts fairly easy.<br />Good luck and have fun.Derekhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/07654835987876553254noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5493681473159888383.post-70943968126756387132015-01-14T13:25:54.091+00:002015-01-14T13:25:54.091+00:00Hi Derek,
Would you be able to do a blog post lik...Hi Derek,<br /><br />Would you be able to do a blog post like your 8th March 2012 one explaining how you rough out a hazel self bow (or if you've already done one, point me to it) please?<br /><br />I have obtained some hazel staves (probably not much good, but then it's a first go, so nothing to lose).. From your other posts, I believe that I should split the staves and cover the ends with PVA glue, and then leave them to dry. I don't fancy having a go with an axe, so I guess that I will have to saw them. Are there any tips on doing this? avoiding where the branches were? going through them? or anything?<br /><br />Thanks in advance,<br /><br /><br />Peter.Blue Peterhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/09364472479969207332noreply@blogger.com