Tuesday, 23 May 2017

Arrow Plate & Feature Knot

I've got the arrow plate done on the warbow, clean simple large and unobtrusive, just the job.
I've shaped the grip a little of the primitive to help me see how far towards the grip I can get the limbs moving that area is commonly called the fade, where limb fades into grip. It's easy to have the grip and fade far too long which wastes working limb length and gives shorter more highly stressed limbs.
The bow was positioned in the stave to put 2 big knots at the grip, one will at the arrow pass and the other smaller becomes a feature knot on the other side. I could have rasped it away and lost it, but I think it will be V attractive on the finished bow, so much so that I could n't resist sanding it and giving it a wipe of Danish Oil. I've got the bow at a low brace but haven't tried it on the tiller today as I've been cleaning up the back, grip and knots, I imagine it's about 45# at 20" by now.
Taking Emily cat to the vet tomorrow, hopefully she'll be allowed out on her own... fingers crossed for her, as she's yearning to run off and roam a bit without a harness (or a collar which is even worse!)

Monday, 22 May 2017

Back to the Primitive


We are still a bit wrapped up keeping an eye on the cat, which today also included pulling her out of the pond! She'd tried to leap it whilst on her lead... whoops.
Anyhow I've managed to get some time working on the primitive and cleaned up the back and filled some knots on the belly, there are a couple of cavities on the back which I've left as filling on the back doesn't really add any strength in tension and they look cool unfilled (they'll get wax in 'em).
The tiller is reasonably even (right limb stiff in out half) but it's coming back enough to brace it now.
My mate JT collected the repaired Warbow and left one that I'd made him a while back which could do with an arrow plate as it's got rather scuffed by the arrows (One guy who makes superb arrows insists they won't rasp away the Yew, but I think it's his arrows that are being used!). The picture doesn't lie.

Update:- The primitive is now at a low brace (about 3") and pulling 18" with the outer limbs moving more now

Saturday, 20 May 2017

Warbow Repair Before and After

The title say it all! The right limb still looks a tad stiff, but it can always have some more done once its been shot a bit. Overall the tiller is much better and the weight is up a whisker from when I started as 100# @ 28" equates roughly to about 107# @30" and it's now actually pulling about 115# @30" so I'll call it quits for now, can always take an inch off each end at some later date.

The lower image (after retiller) looks smoother and less stressed despite being drawn an extra 2" !

The picture with two identical circles superimposed on it shows the right limb isn't bending on such tight a curve as the left and there is still a bit off a stiff grip. Much better than before though :-)
Note:- The bow looks almost like a laminate in the middle pic (especially on the left limb), it's where I have rasped the belly and the fresh wood is paler, once it's had a wipe of Danish oil it will be darker, a bit of time will then take it back to the same colour as the rest.
Some vid here:- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGJSuL-r7-s

Friday, 19 May 2017

Warbow Repair Update

The multiple patch looks really good and has stiffened that area. Putting it on the tiller and the other limb looked very whip tillered so I didn't draw it too far.
I strapped the upper limb straight and gave it a good heat treating which has taken out a little set and stiffened it.
Pulling it to about 100# shows it is much improved but the tiller needs some work. I've drawn a circle which fits the upper limb and then a similar one for the lower, you can see they are not centred at the grip. The lower (left) limb still shows as weak mid limb, or rather the whole centre section of the bow is stiff. Over all the upper (right) limb is too stiff.
I will re tiller it and if it has lost too much weight I'll take an inch or so off each tip.
Meanwhile I've been picking away at the knots on the Yew primitive and filling them, also working down the sapwood on the back.


Bottom pic shows the multiple patch approach with 2 deep ones and then a long one over the top.

Emily cat is still not allowed out on her own as she's got a urinary tract infection :-(  .Shes on antibiotics and will have to have a check up next week, happy enough in herself tho' but pining to get out on her own.



Wednesday, 17 May 2017

Repair Progress and the Primitive

The repair has been unstrapped from the straight plank and cleaned up, I'll give it another 24 hours before flexing it but you can see it's straightened out some of the set. the finished patch feels thicker and the dip in that limb isn't evident. The two part approach with the 2 little patches under the long one looks sound from an engineering and aesthetic perspective. We won't know how it really looks until it is on the tiller. If the fix has restored that lower limb I will evaluate the upper and see if that needs some work.
Pic below shows the first two small patches rasped down ready for the long patch over the top of them.


I've worked down the primitive stave and got it on the tiller for my first look. It's obviously way too stiff still, but the limbs look nice and even. The bit of work I've done taking twist and deflex out has worked out too and it is looking promising.

We are taking Emily cat to the vet tomorrow morning and hopefully she'll be allowed out on her own which will give me more time working on the bows. We've been letting her out on a harness and only putting her collar on at night.


Monday, 15 May 2017

A Warbow Repair

I went out roving with mate JT on Sunday and he warmed up to shooting the 150# Yew Warbow I made for him a while back.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mNWg68Eg1E
 As he was warming up he showed me one of his other bows (not made by me) which had two nasty pinches/chrysals running from pin knots on the lower limb. He asked if I could repair it and I said I'd give it a try but no guarantees. He then strung it and took a shot, the tiller looked awful, and as he drew up again I called out "Don't shoot it!"
In the full length pic of the bow the area with the pinches is in the far limb wher the bow rests on the bench support (by the mug).
Now this isn't a criticism of the bowyer (Poletti) as all warbows are highly stressed and I've had to patch mine. It's also very easy to see with hindsight why a bow has chrysalled or pinched. However if these things are spotted a bow can often be repaired or re-tillered to great effect. Faults that are visible after a year or so would not have been evident to the bowyer when it was first made.
Conversely I don't think all the bows I see are properly tillered, but I try to withold my criticism unless I'm asked.
It will be an interesting repair that I'll tackle slightly differently to my usual method.
The pinches are relatively deep and go right across the bow any patch would be deep and not very flexible, thus it would be hard to get it to fit perfectly. I will do two individual small deep circular section patches to fill the pinches, these will then be taken down a little and a continuous long patch added to strengthen the weak area in the bow. rather than just patch it in it's current state.
 I've taken the risk of gently pulling it back straight and applying a little heat, so hopeful some of the set will disappear. Note:- I've rasped out shallow scoops between the two big ones to relieve some of the stress as it is pulled straight.
I put it on the tiller before I started and pulled it to about 28" (nearly 100#) so you could see the "Before" shot... hopefully there will eventually be an "After" shot too. Hopefully from the pic you'll see why I called out "don't shoot it!" Looking at the tiller, I can't help wondering if there is a similar weak area in the other limb... hmmm, what do you think dear readers?
It may require a little re-tillering when finished.
Why was there a weak area in the first place? It's that dilemma of leaving extra wood round knots and features, you can easily create a weak point between... you are damned if you do and damned if you don't.
I have a slight advantage over commercial bowyers that I can keep an eye on the warbows I make as they stay close to home. I can see what they are like 2 years down the line.

Meanwhile I made contact with the guy for whom I was making a Yew primitive that exploded last year, he still wants one, so the one I'm working on at the moment is ear marked for him... once I've got this repair out of the way.

Friday, 12 May 2017

Odds n Ends

Taken some thickness off the Yew primitive limbs and taken some twist out each limb with the hot air gun. Dry heat seems to leave the correction/bend/whatever set in much more solid with less bounce back than steam. I used to favour steam, but am now favouring dry heat (with some sunflower oil) more now.
I made up 5 gallons of "Hoppy Copper Bitter" yesterday, which will provide some Summer beer.
Emily cat is doing well after her op', but driving us bonkers wanting to go out.
My daughter popped round with a bottle of Vin Blanc from Binky her White Van (see what she did there?) as a thank you for helping her do the wheel bearings. He's in fine fettle now and much quieter.

I'm slightly in trepidation of posting pics of the Yew Primitive seeing as how I jumped the gun on the last bow and the damn thing exploded. I was V disappointed as I was hoping it would become a bit of a masterpiece, but pride comes before a fall. Onwards and upwards.
Meanwhile I bought some high tensile Aluminium sheet to do some tests on crossbow limb configurations as I'd like to try and make a wood/bamboo crossbow that is competitive, can't say I'd likely shoot it much, but I do have a soft spot for crossbows having made a fair few in my youth.
I think they are greatly maligned and are no more inherently "dangerous" than compounds with release aids. (Just my opinion especially having heard "Oooh that went off when I wasn't expecting it" from a compound archer).
IMO there are silly rules (NFAS) like you aren't allowed to cock the bow until you are on the peg, this wastes time... it should be that you must not cock the bow until you are on the peg or next to shoot, BUT you must not load the bolt until you are on the peg.
Also Aluminium bows are not allowed... I've never had a breakage of an Aluminium bow, and they could easily specify that it must be bound with 3 layers of insulation tape/cloth tape or similar (to prevent a broken limb causing injury. they don't seem worried about longbows exploding!
I think our sport is remarkably safe and unfortunately a few idiots (I daresay they aren't members of an archery organisation) cause headlines for the wrong reasons.
maybe some pics tomorrow...