Here's the full list of links to the videos starting with part 1.
Rough out Quarter log into stave
Further Roughing Out
First Time on the Tiller
A Little Work on One Tip
More Detail Work
Up and Down on the Tiller
Getting Close
Nearly Done
Fitting Horn Nock
Finishing & Test Shots (Inlaying the arrow plate is shown in this one)
My trusty of bow making shirt has finally disintegrated, it will have a noble end as cloth for the garage, for cleaning and applying Danish Oil.I got onto E-bay and have brought a suitable replacement, it's already in use as I've started roughing out a stave for a Yew Primitive.
Note I don't cut away the grip, even though it is marked out. also the natural sideways curve has been laid out to suit a right handed bow to get the arrow pass nearer the centre line. The stave has some natural deflex, I'll leave that in the centre and add some gentle reflex to bring the bow back to about zero overall deflex.Working on the primitive is very much seat of the pants stuff as you can't really judge where the heart sap boundary is within the wood, also this stave has some dark streaky sapwood which is sort of half heart wood. With a Hazel stave this problem wouldn't exist.
Good evening,
ReplyDeleteThis bow turned out pretty well :)
This afternoon I was roughing out some of my logs, and some of them had some twist or side bends in them. Then I wondered how you were laying out such staves... I mean do you draw the shape of the bow with the tips and the center aligned or do you draw it with respect to the grain in which case you would expect to get the alignment by removing the twist/side bend?
Some times ago you asked whether someone knew how to use CAD softwares to simulate the bending of a bow... Well I carried out such experiment and the results were quite helpful to create a new bow design. Tests in real life confirmed the simulation! (I'd like to send you a document where I could show you this but I don't know how I could send it to you.. :/)
I hope that you'll take the time to read such a long comment ;)
Hi, with Yew Hazel or Elm you can ignore the run of the grain to a fair extent, other woods especially Osage need you to follow the grain carefully as it splits so readily both radially and following the rings. Regarding twist sometimes it helps to lay the bow out slightly diagonally, or just ignore the twist and tiller it to pull back straight regardless (this stave was tillered without removing the twist and it became my regular field shooting bow:-
ReplyDeletehttp://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2011/09/explain-more.html
Alternatively use heat to remove twist and bend. It's all down to experience really, but deciding where the bow lays in the log can be tricky.
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