I've got the Monkey bow at a 4" brace (note the limbs are naturally deflexed to start with). Here's a frame grab from some video which shows some interesting points.
The digital scale was great from me to see while pulling the bow back (it was reading 50#) but it's not legible on video!
The levers aren't coming in to play yet. E.G The string is still resting on the tips of the bow and has not lifted off.
Improving the tiller (although it's surprisingly good already) will reduce the draw weight a tad and also let me get the brace up.
By the time I've done that the levers will be coming over a bit more and the string bridges won't need to be as large as shown in the diagram.
Here are some pics of a decent Siyahs cut from Ash with a natural curve to the grain and splice in with a good length of joint. The joint is then bound with linen thread soaked in epoxy. This bow was actually faced back and belly with a fibreglass lamination.
I'll post a pic of the much shorter V splice on the Monkey bow in my next entry.
If I decide on different lever geometry, I can always find a bit of curved Ash and re do the levers with a longer stronger joint (assuming it doesn't explode first).
I've done a bit more and got the brace height up a bit, I thinks the limbs are pretty close to how I want them, but I thnk the levers are just at too extreme an angle.
I'll have to see if I can find some Ash with a slight curve in the grain and re-do the levers. At least I just did this quickly, another triumph for my WAQAP quality philosophy! (That's Wrong AS Quick As Possible). I could have wasted ages doing drawings models, geometry and arithmetic only to find it needed re-doing anyway, I've a sneaking suspicion that string bridges are actually a fine tuning mechanism.
You can see that the levers on the Asiatic recurve are at too shallow and angle, somewhere in between is the Goldilocks zone where they are just right.