The metal tray that was fitted beneath the belt was held on with 4 fiddly little M4 screws and the dust extractor spigot was pointing down wards from that, virtually inaccessible.
The new arrangement seems to catch the dust better, although some overshoots, as the shield doesn't protrude above the level of the belt (that's another modification I made, allowing long items to run over the sander without fouling).
It's much more convenient having the on/off switch accessible too. (The pics are taken from the other side to the on off switch).
Meanwhile a friend asked if I could have a try at fixing a flight bow of his which has taken on some twist/ sideways bend when braced. I'ts by a reputable well known American Bowyer who has told him how to do the fix as shipping it back and forth to the US is impractical.
It's a very deep, narrow ELB flight bow, Hickory back Osage belly with some other core wood.
The technique suggested is to force the string over while braced and heat the side/belly (on the outside of the bend, see pics). This has needed a couple of 20 minute heat sessions, taking care not to get it too hot. After the first session it was back in line but crept back some way over night.
The friend in question has given me some carbon fibre tow which I will use wrapped round the nocks of the next crossbow prod... that should stop the bugger splitting!
The second session I got it a little hotter and pulled it another inch over. It seemed ok the next morning, but I'll leave it a few days before declaring it good.
My only reservations about the method are the ability of the Resorcinol glue to withstand the heat (but the glue line is for the most part, deep withing the limb).
Secondly, is heating it whilst braced going to introduce set? The bow did have some set to start with.
Anyhow, it's a no-lose scenario as the bow would become fire wood if it isn't fixed
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