I wanted to know how the Boo/Yew shot, and Rob the guy I made it for was going to a Shires Rove. My mate JT was going up there too, so I sent the bow up with him and anxiously waited to hear the verdict.
I got a private message of face book that evening:-
"I just wanted to let you know from the moment I got my hands on the bow I’ve had a smile on my face it is by far, and I’m not just saying this, the best bow I’ve ever had the pleasure of shooting.
So we knew it was going to be fast, but it’s more than just fast, no hand shock, no stacking just really smooth and will shoot a half inch arrow 100 yards direct. I didn’t get to do a flight shoot today but will next weekend.
No words can really thank you enough for what you’ve done
This bow has by a country mile out performed all my other bows. It had a lot of positive comments I even stopped for 15 mins on the way home at the woods because I wanted to shoot it more
Thanks again "
The pic shows he has a really good long full draw, so next time he's at my place I'll get it on the tiller for a quick check now it's shot in.
Cameras can give odd impressions of tiller sometimes as the camera is often above and behind the centre of the bow, also the bow is seldom completely vertical. I find it tends to foreshorten the lower limb slightly or make it look a tad week, anyhow no harm in having a check on the tiller, and if it needs a scrape on the upper limb its no problem and well worthwhile to ensure an even tiller.
Just to illustrate what I mean. I've taken the top pic, rotated it to get the arrow horizontal, and fitted an ellipse. It shows the upper tip as being a tad stiff, mind that's the one with the belly knot where the slight reflex kink sits.
Having just written that, makes me also consider the nocking point, if the arrow is nocked low or high, that can make a slight difference.
All this may seem a bit OCD, but with a warbow it's important to get a good even tiller to maintain longevity. As my mate JT said to someone "it's all about the tiller"
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