I've made a new string, done the grip and started applying the Danish oil, another coat of that, then singn it and wax it and she's good to go.I'd like to get some more arrows shot through it, but I'll try to get it ready for collection Sunday evening.
The nocks are covered with masking tape at the mo' to keep the Danish oil off them and the arrow pass isn't buffed up. The pics show some of the detail.
Bottom pic shows what was a large and worrying knot, it has largely disappeared leaving a nice feature, a good deal of care is needed to try and work out how much can be removed without weakening the limb, or converesly how much to leave without making that area over stiff... it's all very subjective.
Great stuff Derek- lovely bow.Just wondered, why the oil and wax?
ReplyDeleteI like a wax finish, but it's not quite as durable as the Danish Oil. So I use Danish Oil (bit of a misnomer as it's not oil) and then a wipe with the beeswax polish, which can then be use for a quick easy wipe on finish.E.G, If the bow gets wet, wipe dry with a cloth, leave it half an hour then wipe with beeswax polish. Just my personal preference, if a bow was going to get used in the rain a lot, then maybe a modern polyeurathne would be better, but I like natual finishes and don't like high gloss.
DeleteWhy don't you want oil on the horn?
ReplyDeleteThe Danish oil tens to form a tacky film on horn and then rubs off as the arrows run over it. I find the final wax coat (bees wax and turps type stuff) is better on the horn
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