Making Flight Arrows

I've been making flight arrows for the 50# ELB. I'm making a couple at 26" long first to see how they go, I'll evaluate those for distance and maybe use the shooting machine and slo mo video.
With that in mind I got out my two old cameras, recharged the batteries and thought I'd try them on my tiller mounting point. The tests made me realise why I use my current camera! The Casio Exilim gave much clearer video, but I couldn't get the whole bow in the frame! The old Kodak gave clearer video too, but the auto focus kept jumping back and forth, mind I may investigate to see if there are alternative focus modes in video.I've bought quite a few odds n ends lately and a nice bunch of feathers turned up (ordered off E-bay), they look a bit scruffy, but they have been naturally moulted and are just what I want for fletching.
I also had a nice turned Yew pen arrive in the post, which is a "thank you" for some Yew I gave to a guy up Leicester way (sent up with my mate JT to a Shires Rove shoot, from whence it was collected).

Making the flight arrows is a bit of a fiddle as they become rather delicate once tapered at either end. I put masking tape round the shaft, grip it firmly in the lathe chuck and push it onto my arrow tapering jig to sand it to a taper. I got a bit heavy handed with one shaft and it jammed up, the lathe chuck was nipped a bit to tight and it just twisted the shaft in two!
What I should have done is rough tapered by hand or on the lathe and just used the tapering jig to finish... I've only made the mistake twice now (whoops). Anyhow, I've improved my tool rest for wood turning on the lathe, so I can rough turn tapers etc.



By the way, the XL size shooting glove arrived and it's just the job, I also bought some brass rod for turning flight arrow points. I use brass for the points as it gets a lot of mass into a tiny point and it machines nicely. "But you don't want a lot of mass" I hear you say. 
Ah, no, indeed (I'm in danger of going all Frankie Howerd here.... oooh missus) but you want the mass right at the tip, to get the balance point as far forward as possible so a small heavy point does the job slightly better than a longer one of the same weight. (e.g. An Aluminium point would have to be 3 times the volume to have the same mass. Steel is close enough to brass, but can rust and stainless steel doesn't machine well generally)).The points weigh about about 15-20 grains, and that's enough to move the centre of gravity, (balance point) about 1/2 to 1" forward of the geometric centre.